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Nikon D50 Screen
INTRODUCTION
This is how I use and arrange a D50.
Want free live phone support, 24 hours a day, twelve months a year? Should you're within the USA, name (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon additionally has some of it's own operator's tutorials here.
I start off explaining things so simply my mom can perceive, and get on to deciphering each menu merchandise for superior users on the bottom.
For extra examples of why you'd wish to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Picture Expedition page.
BASICS:
CAMERA
Many of those adjustments require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M exposure modes. You set that on the highest dial. The lovable preset modes often lock out some adjustments.
I leave most settings at their defaults and use the Program publicity mode. I by no means use the cute little preset icon modes as a result of I want to set something special myself.
ISO: I use 200. If the sunshine gets dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I enhance the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I never bother with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 appears fantastic at ISO 1,600 if you happen to need it. I might a lot somewhat have a barely grainy however sharp picture than a much less grainy however blurry one. Unlike movie, the D50 seems nice at excessive ISOs, so I use them anytime I need them.
I would love to use ISO AUTO, however normally do not as a result of it additionally stays lively in Guide exposure mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the manual publicity mode. Utilizing menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for guide publicity mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Balance (WB): I would use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I choose warmer (oranger) images. I clarify white balance on my White Balance page and explain more about how to adjust it on the D50 later.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. This is known as NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Giant (three,008 x 2,000) picture size.
I've made 12 x 18" prints of the identical shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO distinction! Significantly, should you noticed these prints you would not have the ability to sort them out either. I can see solely the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to a hundred%, which is similar to a 20 x 30" print, and my digital LCD monitor has one hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don't. Don't be concerned: in the event you need house, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The one technique to tell is by wanting at the file size.
I'll use BASIC for events and sports activities after I'm taking pictures many hundreds and a whole lot of pictures at once. In these instances I am extra involved with time wasted for the recordsdata to switch, copy and archive. Fundamental seems 99% the same as FINE, even blown up big.
I'll use FINE on rare occasions the place I am taking pictures just some photos and expect to peer at them very closely. In these instances the extra dimension is not significant if I expect to be spending quite a lot of time analyzing every image.
I keep away from FINE JPG because NORM offers me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Lacking a shot is a very visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon is aware of what they're doing. That's why they call it Regular and that's why I normally use Normal JPG.
OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I choose the vivid shade I get from Fuji's Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to give colour as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Shooting Menu (digicam icon) > Optimize Picture > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Shade Mode to IIIa) > - - Completed > OK. In the event you overlook to pick out "- - Finished" and hit OK it won't keep in mind these settings! Details are on the Capturing Menu page.
For images of individuals I either set the colors again to regular, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial.
FOCUS: AF.
METERING: Matrix.
LENS
Many lenses haven't any switches or settings. In that case, do not worry.
More superior lenses have focus mode settings, which shall be either "M/A - A," or "A - M" on older lenses.
On older lenses I go away it at "A," which is Autofocus. "M" is handbook focus. Sometimes you also have to move the change on the digicam, which is a pain.
If the switch says "M/A - A" then I exploit M/A. This provides autofocus, and if I seize the main target ring it immediately lets me make guide corrections. As quickly as I tap the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, gives both sorts of focus without ever having to maneuver any switches . It is the best.
Non-G lenses may have an aperture ring where the lens is hooked up to the camera. Set this this ring to the most important number, often 22, if not 32 or 16. This quantity will be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to maintain this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you'll get an error message from the D50.
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